There are two resources I am aware of for parts for the Erma E M1. HOWEVER, their stock has been running out because many have had the same experience you have had.
Numrich Arms in New York, USA
http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem.asp?chrMasterModel=2910zEM1Bob's Gun Shop in Arkansas, USA
http://www.gun-parts.com/erma/I have e-mailed the German company that was Erma Werke's distributor, and asked them who else might have parts. When I get a reply, I'll post it here.
Wischo in Erlangen, Germany
http://www.wischo.com/index.htmlEurope is having the same problem the rest of the world is having obtaining parts. The German online auction website EGun.de frequently has the magazines for sale, at prices of 50 Euros and up. The American online auction website Gunbroker.com, they sell for $60 US and up.
The second most common part people look for is the rear sight. On Gunbroker these sell for $75 and up.
DO NOT remove the rear sight. The set screw is made of a better metal than the receiver. The screw is too short and typically will strip out the beginning of the receiver threads when you try to put it back on. You will notice some of these rifles have a replacement set screw, with good reason.
As poorly as Erma made them, they are great fun to shoot. I have been contacted by people from all over this planet who own them.
I am working on a web page that details their history, as a side project to my main interest, the M1 carbines that served in West Germany and Austria post WWII. It will include how to completely disassemble and reassemble them, which I don't recommend unless it's a necessity.
When I get the web page presentable, I'll put the information here.
I'm surprised more people have not bought them and stripped them for their parts to sell.
I own two. One proofed in 1967 and one proofed in 1968. The one from 1967 works great. The other I'm working on, and may strip it for its parts. Just in case I need a replacement part for the other.
It's worth it to me. The one that works is a really fun gun to shoot. Plus, it's the one depicted above with the low serial number. I may just preserve it and get the other one working.
Jim
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Patton was right.